Where chefs Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner really succeed is by keeping the food fun but keeping the flavors accessible, all the while displaying a Sinatra-like devotion to doing things their way. There may not be a traditional appetizer, entree, dessert structure to be found here, but the better to experiment with; it's freeing in that way. There's no reward without risk, and you'll often be rewarded at
Provisions richly. PHOTOS BY TROY FIELDS