Each dish at
Cove,
the new restaurant-within-a-restaurant tucked inside Haven, comes with a story. That's the way that Gaston and owner Randy Evans planned it when the duo — chef de cuisine and executive chef — decided to build a raw bar inside the existing restaurant, converting Haven's somewhat underused bar into a warm, self-contained cafe that's only open for dinner. You don't have to eat inside Cove — you can simply order from its smart cocktail and wine list — but you'd be missing out on one of the city's most immersive and subversive dining experiences, a meal that will turn any pre-existing notion you had about the depth and breadth of raw seafood and meat on its ear. PHOTOS BY TROY FIELDS