Eatsie Boys Go Brick-and-Mortar

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If someone distilled all that is modern Houston into a restaurant, it would serve dishes like matzoh ball pho and fried shrimp banh mi in a casual, counter-service cafe shaded by thick-trunked live oak trees and fronted by a river of traffic. That place exists already, though. It's called Eatsie Boys, and it thoroughly and exuberantly embraces all that is young, vibrant, wonderful and weird about the Bayou City. Read more in this week's cafe review. PHOTOS BY TROY FIELDS