Gloriously Gallic Grub at L'Olivier

April 3, 2013 4:00AM

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Something occurred to me halfway through my final lunch course at L'Olivier one afternoon. Over an apple tart so simple as to be nearly ascetic — perfectly flaky puff pastry bottom providing a buttery buttress to the gentle fan of paper-thin Granny Smith apple slices that nearly floated above it — I decided that all this current hand-wringing over the so-called "tyranny of tasting menus" (a phrase semi-coined by Corby Kummer in Vanity Fair this past February) is a bit unnecessary. Read more in this week's cafe review. PHOTOS BY TROY FIELDS

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