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Gloriously Gallic Grub at L'Olivier
Wednesday, April 3, 2013 at 4 a.m.

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Gloriously Gallic Grub at L'Olivier
Something occurred to me halfway through my final lunch course at L'Olivier one afternoon. Over an apple tart so simple as to be nearly ascetic — perfectly flaky puff pastry bottom providing a buttery buttress to the gentle fan of paper-thin Granny Smith apple slices that nearly floated above it — I decided that all this current hand-wringing over the so-called "tyranny of tasting menus" (a phrase semi-coined by Corby Kummer in Vanity Fair this past February) is a bit unnecessary. Read more in this week's cafe review. PHOTOS BY TROY FIELDS
Something occurred to me halfway through my final lunch course at L'Olivier one afternoon. Over an apple tart so simple as to be nearly ascetic — perfectly flaky puff pastry bottom providing a buttery buttress to the gentle fan of paper-thin Granny Smith apple slices that nearly floated above it — I decided that all this current hand-wringing over the so-called "tyranny of tasting menus" (a phrase semi-coined by Corby Kummer in Vanity Fair this past February) is a bit unnecessary. Read more in this week's cafe review. PHOTOS BY TROY FIELDS
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