Kevin Naderi Comes Home to Roost

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Although it's only a little more than three months old, Roost is already one of the most impressive restaurants to come along in a few years. Bowls of buttery roasted cauliflower in a satiny miso broth with delicate flakes of bonito dancing across the top share the menu with country-fried quail in Steen's cane syrup and meaty gravy. PHOTOS BY TROY FIELDS