Savory South Texas: Tex-Mex at Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen

There is something immensely satisfying about wrapping a hot flour tortilla around the queso flameado at Sylvia’s Enchilada Kitchen. Something deeply Texan and deeply mystical about how well the salty, stretchy, creamy cheese — dotted, if you’ve ordered correctly, with tender pieces of beef fajita meat — melds with the lard-laced tortillas, freckled black from the skillet and thick in your hands. It’s like the gods of Tex-Mex are smiling beatifically down with each salty, fatty bite. PHOTOS BY TROY FIELDS