9889 Bellaire Blvd., 713-777-7029. Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily. “What’s that called?” my buddy John Bebout asked the hostess at the new restaurant called Hong Kong Dim Sum on Bellaire. He was pointing at an impressive-looking pile of fried noodles at the next table. “That’s chow kueh teow,”…