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Fighting Fish

Dating back to mid-17th-century Spain, the word zarzuela refers to a mixture of song, dance and dialogue — a sort of variety show. The variety-show concept fits perfectly with the zarzuela de mariscos ($15.50) at Tio Pepe (5213 Cedar, 713-667-4409). It’s a casserole, much like French bouillabaisse, prepared with many…

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