Smoke Signal

When the owner of Byzantio Cafe & Bar (403 West Gray, 713-520-6896) is cooking souvlaki ($2 each), his outdoor barbie billows mouthwatering smells and plenty of smoke into the air. These Greek kebabs are available from 6 p.m. to midnight Thursdays through Saturdays, and noon to 6 p.m. on Sundays. It's a pity that they're not cooked up every day, because the pork-loin skewers are so tasty, they're almost addictive. Prior to cooking, the meat is bathed in lemon juice, olive oil, salt and lots of oregano. After being grilled, the pork is incredibly moist in the center and, if you're lucky, charbroiled on the outside.