To steak tartare, sashimi, ceviche, carpaccio and crudo, you can add gored gored ($10.50). When you order it at Blue Nile (9400 Richmond, 713-782-6882), the waitress is likely to say, "That's raw beef, you know," making sure she won't have to take it back to the kitchen. Considered the national dish of Ethiopia, gored gored is cubes of tender beef mixed with a butter and berbere sauce, made from a hot blend of spices. It's served on tef or injera, the Ethiopian bread, which imparts a distinct sour note, along with finely chopped collard greens and ayeb, a type of cottage cheese. Since no utensils are used in Ethiopian restaurants, you tear off a piece of the bread and use it to pick up the ingredients and pop them in your mouth.