The semolina cake ($8) at Sabetta Café & Wine Bar (2411 S. Shepherd, 832-623-6307) doesn’t sound that exciting in itself. But the sauce, a rosemary syrup, not only adds a perfume and a strong herbal note, but also a touch of elegance to the otherwise plain cake. The cake is actually the perfect foil to the sauce, since a highly flavored cake would be a distraction. And the normally bitter taste of rosemary completely disappears in the presence of the sugar in the syrup.
This article appears in Jul 29 – Aug 4, 2010.