Best Barbecue: Willow’s Smokehouse & Tavern
Is it so punk rock of us to tab Willow’s Smokehouse & Tavern as Best Barbecue in Houston since it’s been open for business only a few months now? Not really. This city’s BBQ enthusiasts know Willow Villarreal and Jasmine Barela, the owners and chefs behind the new Eastwood restaurant, are acclaimed, having established themselves firmly in the city’s food scene, from pop-ups, food trucks and different brick and mortars. This latest site is more than just a place to taste the best smoked meats and sides in town, it’s also a friendly tavern, with a lot of charm, which promises to make the restaurant an East End hub.
What people may not know is Villarreal was once a punk rock/hardcore music promoter. That spirit has never waned, especially in his food, which creates a mosh pit for your palate – the bold seasoning which builds the bark of the perfect brisket; the straightforward simplicity of smoke doing wonders to beef, turkey, pork ribs and especially chicken. There’s even a little punk rock attitude in Willow’s sausage, some bite from a tasty jalapeño and cheddar mix.
Johnny, DeeDee and Tommy are on the menu, too. Not literally, but the sides created by chef Jasmine Barela are standouts at Willow’s, just like Joey’s fellow Ramones. If you want to truly be counter to the culinary culture, order a side of pan de elote with your sliced beef sandwich, as we recently did. The beef is piled in, so you’ll have two flavor profiles with two types of bread to soak up the moist meat and the tangy BBQ sauce.
The food is remarkable but so is the vibe and it’s vibey because Willow’s was built by and for creative, nonconformists. The tavern buildout is the work of Moon Papas, the design collective of Julian Lara and Matt Fries. Zack Palmer, who for years ran Walter’s, one of H-town’s iconic music venues, created the tavern’s drink menu. There are vintage punk show posters in a cozy upstairs dining area and Nirvana on the jukebox downstairs. Villarreal and Barela leaned into the DIY ethos of punk and have created a modern BBQ masterpiece.
832-649-3114