At Taco Milagro (2555 Kirby, 713-522-1999), you can customize your sweet-potato-and-chard enchiladas ($6.45) at the salsa bar. Not that it’s necessary — the dish can stand alone, too. Two enchiladas are filled with sweet potatoes and Swiss chard, whose sweet and bitter flavors balance each other, and topped with a guajillo pepper sauce, melted Jack cheese and crema fresca. Served with standard accompaniments — a bowl of Spanish rice and refried beans — the enchiladas are unlike anything you’ve tried.
This article appears in Sep 7-13, 2006.