The mussels ($10) at Sophia (1601 W. Main, 713-942-7970) fill their entire shells. Plump and juicy, they’re almost too much to eat in one mouthful. But it’s not their size that makes them so exquisite, it’s what Chef David Alvarado does with the sauce. He dices apple-smoked bacon and onions so finely, they’re almost hard to distinguish from each other, then adds them to the apple brandy sauce used to steam the mussels. The result is a bold, unusual taste. Bravo, chef, for introducing such a fabulous flavor combination.
This article appears in Oct 5-30, 2008.