Too frequently, pasta is the only vegetarian alternative at a restaurant. And too frequently, it’s merely acceptable. But the spinach and cheese lasagna ($7.95) at Barnaby’s Cafe (604 Fairview, 713-522-0106; 1701 South Shepherd, 713-520-5131; 414 West Gray, 713-522-8898) is superb. It has four layers of perfectly baked pasta with ricotta…
