This little restaurant with a silly name (there’s no pizza served here anymore), located in a neglected strip center, is a drive for most Houstonians. But it’s worth every mile. Owner Barbara Coglianese hails from Imola and has imported her Bolognese-style Italian food almost part and parcel to this surprisingly authentic spot. The lasagna here verges on indescribable, with improbably fine layers and soft mascarpone playing against a sweetly tart marinara sauce. Handmade gnocchi are another treat, softly covered with a Gorgonzola-brightened four-cheese sauce. BYOB and show up early; Capri gets quickly packed every night thanks to its fine food and equally fine service (keep your eye out for Coglianese’s young son, the best waiter in the house).
This article appears in Sep 22-28, 2011.