When your server at Christian’s Tailgate asks if you want fries or onion rings, there’s only one defensible reply. The rings, giant circles of sweet white onion coated with a batter so dense you might think it was savory cookie dough, are deep-fried but never greasy, crisp but not crumbly. And with a luscious oily brown sheen and rich consistency, the rings are also, as you might expect, deliciously distracting. Two-thirds of the way through an order, you may pause and think, “Wait, didn’t I come for the burger?” Well, that’s what you can tell the folks at home, but we know better.
This article appears in Oct 10-16, 2013.