Stringy, sinewy cuts of second-rate cow bathed in a blanket of pasty flour can come dangerously close to high school cafeteria levels in some joints. Cookie the trail-hand cowboy cook would be downright offended by some of the versions being rustled up. Not so at Hickory Hollow, where they truly know how to keep the wagons happy. Generous, thick portions of fall-apart beef are dredged in just enough flour to get 'er goin', then seasoned to perfection with salt and black pepper. Pour some from-scratch cream gravy over it, pick your side dishes, and wink to the cowboy gods.
Readers' choice: Denny's