Billing itself as "The Story of Houston Food," Underbelly has taken Houston's extremely diverse array of ethnic cuisines and combined them all seamlessly into a modern menu that somehow feels timeless and organic. Chef Chris Shepherd's love for all things Asian shows in dishes like Korean goat dumplings and Peking chicken with crispy eggplant, while Texas's heritage is reflected in cornmeal-cured pork chops and roasted pork belly with pimiento cheese grits. Middle Eastern-meets-homespun in "Lamburger Helper," while Mexican influences come through in green chile soup. And it's all accessible, too, from the prices and easy-to-browse wine list to the come-as-you-are vibe of the dining room and Shepherd's effusively welcoming personality.