Credit: Stephen Paulsen

As Galveston officials fretted about the approach of Tropical Storm Cindy Wednesday, the atmosphere on the Galveston beaches was decidedly different.

On Tuesday, Galveston County Judge Mark Henry issued a voluntary evacuation for the Bolivar Peninsula, which could be cut off from the mainland during heavy winds and rising tides. Workers in Galveston proper have also been bracing for the storm, clearing storm drains, preparing for high-water rescues and choosing locations for barriers should the sea water start to inundate the town.

Tides lashed against the Galveston Seawall in some places Wednesday afternoon, turning the beach into a churning mess of water. But with all of the people hanging out along the beaches, there was little sign anyone on the island was worried a tropical storm was approaching. Onlookers sat placidly in lawn chairs in ankle-deep water. Surfers rode epic, apparently dangerous waves.

Surf was most definitely up for Cameron Reese. Credit: Stephen Paulsen

Cameron Reese, 23, had come from Richmond, Texas, to enjoy the waves. A surfer, Reese considers hurricane season the best time for surfing in the Gulf of Mexico. He tries to catch Galveston storms whenever he can.

โ€œYou gotta get out here and get in it,โ€ he said. โ€œEveryone else runs. We come to the beach.โ€

The Houston Press spotted around five surfers โ€” a small but not insignificant contingent of the people on the beach. Most of them stuck by a jetty near on 37th Street, riding waves that seemed to come perilously close to the jagged outcropping.

Asked about this apparent hazard, Reese insisted the jetty actually provided surfers with some protection. โ€œYou can paddle right down the edge of it,โ€ he said. โ€œIt stops the waves for you.โ€

Surfers look for waves off the Galveston beaches. Credit: Stephen Paulsen

Surfers aside, few of the people who spoke to the Press had come specifically for Tropical Storm Cindy. Most were caught off guard by the sudden emergence of a storm on the Gulf Coast โ€” but were determined not to let the bad weather affect their vacation plans.

Robert and Angie Vaughan sat in lawn chairs on what would have normally been a beach. Waves lapped at their feet. The Vaughans had come from Oklahoma to celebrate their 37th anniversary on Wednesday. Thirty-seven years ago Wednesday, theyโ€™d come here for their honeymoon.

The couple hadnโ€™t planned on Cindy crashing their anniversary. But they werenโ€™t about to cancel their plans and head back to Oklahoma, either. Despite the dark skies, they said they were having a good time.

โ€œWeโ€™re not hurricane watchers,โ€ Angie said. โ€œBut itโ€™s kind of fun watching.โ€

The Vaughans make the most of their vacation. Credit: Stephen Paulsen

Destiny Hill, from East Texas, had a similar experience. Sheโ€™d come to Galveston with her mom and her four-year-old son, Hayden, to celebrate Haydenโ€™s birthday. โ€œAll he wanted was the beach,โ€ Destiny said, and she held Haydenโ€™s hand and walked him along a jetty.

Like the Vaughans, Destiny was determined not to let Cindy ruin her sonโ€™s birthday plans. Besides, Hayden was having a good time, and that’s what mattered.

โ€œAll we have up there is tornadoes,โ€ Destiny said, speaking of her hometown in East Texas. โ€œThis is way prettier.โ€

Destiny Hill and her son, Hayden. Credit: Stephen Paulsen

The locals who spoke to the Houston Press were similarly unruffled. Bruce Howell, 62, was sitting on a bench near the Strand. A native Galvestonian, Howell is currently homeless โ€” the result, he says, of a leg condition that makes it hard for him to work. But when asked if he was worried about the approaching storm, Howell said, โ€œOf course not.โ€

Meteorologists, he noted, were predicting the eye of the storm would make landfall east. โ€œEven if it made a direct hit, it wouldnโ€™t be that bad,โ€ he said nonchalantly.

Galveston Strand, like the beaches, had its fair number of tourist holdouts. Sure, there could have been more people. But it was difficult to tell if that was because of the storm or simply because it was a weekday.

People on the Strand were doing all the usual Strand-y outings, munching on taffy or carrying beers along the street. In Galveston โ€” the site of the deadliest hurricane in U.S. history โ€” it seems it will take more than Tropical Storm Cindy before beachgoers really start to freak out.

A lifeguard keeps watch over beachgoers in Galveston as Tropical Storm Cindy approaches. Credit: Stephen Paulsen

Stephen Paulsen is a journalist and native Houstonian. He writes about crime, food, drugs, urban planning and extremists of all kinds. He covers local news for Houston Press and cannabis policy for Leafly.