The fish are biting at Basil’s Cafe [2811 Bammel Lane, (713)529-1314], or so it seems with the blue-corn-roasted snapper ($16.50). The taste is so fresh, you’d think this pescado had just been plucked from the water. It’s dipped in egg wash then rolled in small bits, not crumbs, of blue corn chips. After it’s sautéed and baked, the chip-encrusted fish resembles a primitive mosaic, a particularly attractive effect when served next to the rice pilaf and fresh vegetables. The snapper would be good by itself, but it’s topped with a salsa of fresh mango, avocado, red onion and dill that adds some contrast and a little complementary zip. Lunch portions ($15) are a bit smaller, but still large on a taste that lingers long after the plates are cleared in this extremely casual restaurant.
This article appears in Feb 1-7, 2001.