Benjy Levit, co-owner of benjy’s, 2424 Dunstan, (713)522-7602; and Dish, 2300 Westheimer, (713)528-2050, the latter of which features a popular style of cooking known as comfort food.

Q. Why has going out for food that mimics simple home cooking or childhood tastes become so popular with, presumably, sophisticated diners?

A. Several things. Many Houstonians are transplants and don’t have their family around. People lead busy, busy lives. In many families, both parents work and don’t have the time to cook at home for themselves, so they want a restaurant to re-create the dishes they grew up with, for themselves and for their children. People are eating out more and more often. Then there is the good economy. With the times so good, people want indulgences. Some of the items we’re doing are satisfying to the eye and satisfying to the stomach. People enjoy something that is a little richer. Plus, there is a fun sort of nostalgia at work here.

This article appears in Sep 7-13, 2000.