Best Tex-Mex: El Tiempo Cantina
Back in the day, a place like El Tiempo Cantina was simply known as “Mexican food” and maybe that’s still how the meals served in its locations are known in non-Texas parts of the country. Houston’s proximity to Mexico and the strong focus on international cuisine here means El Tiempo must be classified as “Tex-Mex” to not confuse fine diners with authentic Mexican cooking, dishes indigenous to places like Oaxaca and coastal Mexico. One thing that’s clear, no matter what you call it, El Tiempo’s is the best food of its kind in Houston.
When it comes to El Tiempo, everyone has favorites. There are El Tiempo locations across the region, but we still prefer the one on Navigation, right next to Ninfa’s, the Tex-Mex staple from whence El Tiempo sprung. The descendants of “Mama” Ninfa Laurenzo own and operate El Tiempo and for nearly 25 years have been making food from her recipes and from scratch under its banner. The dining area at the Navigation restaurant is oversized, very “Tex.”
As for the “Mex,” the food is hailed. Everyone has their favorite plates: ceviche, fajitas, brisket quesadillas, the iconic enchiladas. Our go-to plates are the carnitas – generous chunks of expertly seasoned, slow-cooked pork to pile onto fresh tortillas – and carne guisada, slow-cooked beef served in mouth watering gravy you’ll wanna sop up with fresh tortillas. Whatever you choose, finish the meal with El Tiempo’s tres leches, one of the city’s best takes on the luscious dessert.
“Mexican” or “Tex-Mex,” a taco by any other name would taste as yummy. There’s one word that translates between styles of cuisine and languages – ¡delicioso! – and that’s the most fitting description of El Tiempo’s offerings.
Multiple locations
www.eltiempocantina.com
This article appears in Jan 1 – Dec 31, 2022.
