Better than candy: Insiders know that there are two schools of thought when it comes to eating the foie gras bonbons ($11) at Catalan Food and Wine (5555 Washington, 713-426-4260). One says you should pop them in your mouth whole, so that when you bite into the crisp exterior, made by rolling balls of foie gras in panko, then frying them, the mousse-like filling will coat your whole mouth. The other says you should pierce them with your fork while they’re still on your plate, then use some of the terrific focaccia they serve here to sop up all the juices. Either way you’ll have the pleasure of eating one superb appetizer. The three golden orbs sit on a bed of homemade seasonal jelly (right now it’s peach). — Paul Galvani
This article appears in Jan 22-28, 2009.