Robb Walsh

Really, it’s not that much bigger.

New York food writer Francis Lam, aka the Chopstick Senator, was in town again recently. Turns out he had never had a proper chicken-fried steak before. (He thought they were made out of hamburger.) So I took him to Kelley’s Country Cookin’ for a grand slam breakfast.

Francis was a little wary at first. His momma told him “never eat anything bigger than your head.” I kept raving about what a damn fine CFS it was, so he had to try it. Then he had seconds and then he had thirds. — Robb Walsh

The Houston Press is a nationally award-winning, 34-year-old publication ruled by endless curiosity, a certain amount of irreverence, the desire to get to the truth and to point out the absurd as well...