If you’re not careful, it’s easy to overlook the crunchy chicken ($15.95) at benjy’s (2424 Dunstan, 713-522-7602), since it’s a little buried on the lunch menu. That would be a pity, since it’s one of the best-tasting chicken dishes you may ever encounter. Two chicken breasts are completely coated with ground-up nuts, then pan-fried to a golden crispness. What’s amazing is that none of the coating ever falls off the chicken. The nuts remain firmly attached until the very end. The chicken sits in a pool of sauce made with a roasted corn reduction, which is as sweet as can be. Thin slices of potatoes au gratin interspersed with caramelized onions are the perfect accompaniment for sopping up the sauce. Asparagus tips and carrots add a sparkle of color.
This article appears in Jun 4-10, 2009.