Deer Sausage and Eggs at Goode Co. Taqueria

The recent news that Goode Co. Taqueria will start serving its breakfast menu seven days a week starting on May 1 got me very excited. Perhaps too excited, as I dragged my boyfriend over there first thing Saturday morning to celebrate the new breakfast schedule with, well, breakfast.

For at least the last 11 years, the half-open air "taqueria" on Kirby has been serving some of the best breakfast food in Houston -- but only on the weekends.

"Oh man, the waffles look so good back there," I sighed as we waited at the register to place our order, peering into the open kitchen and watching a battalion of Hispanic men and women working the line like pistons.

"Show me something that doesn't look good back there," came my boyfriend's amused reply.

True to its roots after all these years, Goode Co. Taqueria's breakfast menu is a truly Houstonian amalgamation of South Texas hunters' food -- quail and venison and catfish -- mingled with traditional Tex-Mex favorites like migas and huevos motuleños. And you can get pretty much anything on the menu tucked into a fresh flour tortilla.

Even back in 2000, the Houston Press was talking up the Taqueria for the same things that are good today: the venison sausage and eggs, the Bloody Marys, the sunny patio with a lazily flowing fountain. We grabbed a little of each that Saturday morning, along with a pecan waffle for "breakfast dessert" (I highly approve of this move, by the way; it also works well with pancakes and French toast).

The breakfast was every bit as good as it's always been, and that's without nostalgia playing into it. Mesquite-grilled catfish covered with a nip of pico de gallo and folded into a tortilla, hearty and slightly sweet deer sausage scrambled into eggs and fired up with a brash handful of jalapeños, pecans playing off the nutty whole-grain batter of the waffles, all of it eaten in the hot March sunshine and all of it terribly filling, necessitating a long stay at the table afterward for proper digestion. This is a deeply Texan breakfast, through and through.

Back in 2000, we referred to it as a "man's breakfast," but I don't think that's entirely appropriate. True, a man would likely find more to love here than at a frou-frou brunch place specializing in flavored mimosas, but anyone with a Texan tongue would love breakfast at Goode Co. Taqueria. And soon they don't have to wait until the weekend comes around to enjoy it.

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Katharine Shilcutt