It's the seafood that makes the weekend dim sum service at Fung's Kitchen special. Tender baby conch in curry, and succulent clams in black bean sauce were among the seafood delicacies available at the dim sum steam table this weekend. You have to get up from the table and walk over there with your little clipboard though, because these items never make it to the wheeled carts that crisscross the dining room. You will find cold seafood items like a cucumber and snail salad on a salad cart -- there's also an excellent Astroturf-green seaweed salad.
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Live seafood including lobster, Dungeness crabs, scallops and prawns can also be ordered from the aquariums during the dim sum brunch (or at any other time). Fresh-killed seafood is a Cantonese specialty. The scallops come attached to the shells and covered with a fabulous garlic sauce. The lobster are best enjoyed with a simple scallion and ginger sauce. The live seafood items aren't cheap, but they are among the best Chinese entrees in the city.