Gyrating belly dancers can be distracting. But the wonderful braised rabbit ($14.95) at Marrakech Restaurant (500 Westheimer, 713-942-0800) demands attention, too. Braised in Moroccan spices with more than a hint of lemon, the rabbit is cooked in a thick, well-spiced sauce with a saffron-yellow hue. It comes to the table with a gently spiced saffron rice, dotted with tiny pieces of carrots and intermingled with small pieces of vermicelli. What an exotic treat. Purists know to request couscous instead of rice.
This article appears in Apr 28 – May 4, 2005.