When you order the smothered oxtail ($12.99) at Under the Bridge (6202 Highway 6 South, 281-564-0202), you may not be able to clean your plate. In fact, it’s not a plate but a platter. But it’s not quantity that makes it special, it’s the rich flavor. The oxtail pieces have been slow-simmered in Cajun spices for quite a while, so that much of the meat falls off the bone. What’s left on is meant for sucking, so feel free to do so, no matter the company. They’re served with cabbage and cinnamon-laced sweet potatoes covered in a sweet syrup. And in case that’s not enough, they also come with two pieces of corn bread and three rolls.
This article appears in Oct 9-15, 2008.