There’s nothing little about the food served at Maggiano’s Little Italy (2019 Post Oak Boulevard, 713-961-2700). In fact, like all dishes served here, the shrimp oreganata ($22.95) is served “family style” and à la carte, which means that the portion is gargantuan, and if you want a side dish, you’ll have to order it separately. When the dish arrives, the aroma of garlic hits your nose way before the oval platter hits the table. Encircling the plate are 12 extra-large shrimp topped with stuffing that makes it look like they’re wearing tiny little caps. The topping is a delectable mixture of panko, the extra-fine Japanese bread crumbs, and lots of garlic and oregano, baked to a golden brown. A simple sauce of fresh chopped tomatoes holds down the center of the dish. The portions here are so large, it’s no wonder that brown carry-home bags eventually materialize on most tables.
This article appears in Feb 26 – Mar 3, 2004.