The homemade potato gnocchi alla gorgonzola ($11) at Perbacco (700 Milam, 713-224-2422) will have you sopping up the creamy gorgonzola sauce with whatever you can find on the table — fork, spoon, bread. It’s one of the all-time tastiest pasta sauces, with just the right tang to it, and you won’t be able to leave one drop on the plate. The gnocchi themselves are made fresh daily, and you can taste it: They melt in your mouth. Bravo.
This article appears in Feb 16-22, 2006.