While the poppyseed kolaches at Olde Towne Kitchen on Memorial near Kirkwood are a little too sweet for my tastes, I love the meaty bacon and cheese klobasnek. The generous filling requires more dough and makes for a larger-size pastry — one is big enough for breakfast. Oddly, the skinnier sausage and cheese klobasneks here are terrible.

Weikel’s in La Grange makes sausage klobasneks with thin lengths of peppery Czech sausage. Hruska’s in Ellington stuffs theirs with your choice of link sausage or spicy pan sausage. Meanwhile in Houston, every sausage klobasnek I’ve tried has been filled with “Vienna sausage” or whatever you want to call those mushy little hot dogs.

Does anybody know where I can get a sausage klobasnek (better known as a sausage kolache) in Houston that contains a decent piece of sausage?

This article appears in Dec 3-9, 2009.