The chateaubriand ($62) at Chez Nous (217 South Avenue G, Humble, 281-446-6717) is probably the best piece of meat in town. It’s a USDA Prime, dry-aged, large-enough-for-two filet of beef, so tender that no knife is required. Because the meat’s so thick, it’s a difficult cut to cook correctly, but at Chez Nous, they prepare it perfectly and carve it right at your table. It comes with an incredible wine reduction as well as the traditional béarnaise sauce (wine, shallots, tarragon, eggs yolks and butter). Piped mashed potatoes and haricots verts also accompany this classic French dish, which was created for French author and statesman François René, vicomte de Châteaubriand, by his chef Montmireil sometime in the early 19th century.
This article appears in Oct 14-20, 2004.