Arborio is the rice used to make risotto, but it’s not likely you’ll recognize it in the arborio-crusted diver scallops ($15) at Pesce (3029 Kirby, 713-522-4858), since it’s been ground up to create a breading. Diver scallops are exactly what they sound like: Handpicked by divers from the bottom of the ocean, they’re less gritty than those harvested in nets. White on the inside and brown and crispy on the outside, the three enormous scallops in this dish are plump, sweet, tender and juicy. They’re served on a bed of mixed field greens with grilled oyster mushrooms and a ruby-red grapefruit beurre blanc for dipping, which adds a tangy touch.
This article appears in Mar 15-21, 2007.