A simple swirl of brilliant white cream breaks up the deep salmon color of the lobster bisque ($15) at Pesce (3029 Kirby, 713-522-4858), adding a texture that is simply divine, and large chunks of lobster meat let you know this is the real deal. A whimsical vol-au-vent made in the shape of a shark swims around the creamy French soup; it starts out crispy but, by the time you take your last few spoonfuls, turns soft and supple as the soup penetrates its many layers. You won’t soon forget the taste, texture or presentation of this classic dish.
This article appears in Oct 28 – Nov 3, 2010.