From the curvy wall of windows, elegantly draped with gauzy curtains, to the retro salsa beat, Bossa (610 Main Street, 713-223-2622) is quite the Havana nightclub setting, even if this Latin fusion operation is owned by Minnesota-based Carlson Restaurants Worldwide, the same folks who brought us T.G.I. Friday’s. Regardless, the swine here makes us swoon. The melt-in-your-mouth lechón (pork tenderloin, $17) is first marinated for 24 hours in orange and lime juices, as well as black peppercorns and cilantro, before being rolled in a mixture of sugar, cumin, pepper and salt. Seared to form a quick crust, it’s then baked and covered with a spicy caramel sauce that envelops the meat, which is sliced and served atop a fanciful sweet potato hash. For pig Latin lovers, it’s ummy-yay.
This article appears in Sep 13-19, 2001.