A hot mess: “If it ain’t messy, then it’s not New Orleans style,” said the waitress to a customer. She was talking about the wonderful poor boys at BB’s Kitchen (2710 Montrose, 713-524-4499). And messy they are. While you can choose from at least ten different versions, my favorite isn’t a traditional New Orleans poor boy — it’s the roast beef. Thin shreds of roast beef are tossed on the griddle, then on top of shredded lettuce and slices of tomato; it’s all smeared with a spicy rémoulade between some French bread. The trick is not getting any on yourself, since the sandwich is so overflowing. At lunch, for a mere $6.99, you get a cup of BB’s soulful chicken-and-sausage gumbo, along with half a poor boy — which is still pretty big. Watch your lapel.
Have an idea for a Hot Plate? Send it to us at
This article appears in Feb 7-13, 2008.