At Guayaba Latin Grill (1603 N. West­green Blvd., 281-829-2555), the ceviche de calamares sud americano ($8.95) is different from your usual ceviche. First, it’s made exclusively with squid and calamari pieces, with no shrimp or fish. Second, in addition to using lime as a marinade, this ceviche also has tomato sauce, so that it almost looks and tastes like Mexican vuelve a la vida. Served in a martini glass, it’s also mixed with red onion, cilantro and olive oil.

This article appears in Nov 27 – Dec 3, 2008.