For culinary engineering at its best, consider the salmon tikka lunch special ($9) at chic Restaurant Indika (12665 Memorial, 713-984-1725). In a complex and healthful interplay of textures and temperatures, glazed salmon fillet wedges are spiced with whole pink peppercorns and served warm, nuzzled up against a cool, crisp green apple and watercress salad. Crackly-skinned roasted new potatoes glossed with mustard oil roll alongside, while sharp pickled red onions sneak up to invigorate and cleanse the palate. The salmon is served with a freshly made coconut chutney that leaves a lush and satiny feel in your mouth. A dish this delish calls for celebration. The party is provided by the house specialty aperitif, the kashmir royale, an exotic bubbly blend of litchi fruit and champagne.
This article appears in Sep 19-25, 2002.