Clarence Pierson, whose outstanding smoked pork is featured in this week’s Cafe review, pulls a brisket out of his bank safe-shaped pit.

Pierson & Company’s smoker was built by one of Houston’s most famous custom barbecue pit builders, BBQ Pits by Klose (2216 W. 34th Street, 800-487-7487).

These are the guys who built the world’s largest barbecue smoker, the smoker that looks like a Continental jet, the smoker that looks like a beer bottle, and countless other outrageous rigs. There are photos of their pits on the company Web site, along with a nice collection of barbecue recipes and a place to order a free catalog.

The custom smokers go for tidy sums, but the simplest Klose smokers start at $69. — Robb Walsh

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