The high ceilings and mythological bas-relief scene give Anthony’s [4007 Westheimer, (713)961-0552] the look of an ancient Roman temple. On one side of the hall there is a nave devoted to wine racks, and directly across from it is another nook housing the bar. I guess the glassed-in kitchen is right where the altar ought to be. And judging by the rising flames, I’d say they’re sacrificing some serious veal chops right now. It’s a warm night, so I ask the bartender for a rum drink.

Anthony’s Rum Runner: Mount Gay Eclipse Barbados Rum is one of my all-time favorite liquors. I was once lucky enough to go cruising for several days in the British Virgin Islands on a sailboat stocked with a case of the stuff. Even today, 20 years later, one sip will place me back under the palm trees on a secluded beach. I guess you could say the taste brings back frond memories.

2 shots Mount Gay Eclipse Barbados Rum

Dash of bitters

Juice of one lime

3 shots pineapple juice

Lime slice

Soda

Fill a tall glass with ice. Add the rum, bitters, lime juice and pineapple juice. Add soda to fill the glass. Stir well and serve garnished with a lime slice. Makes one.

This article appears in May 3-9, 2001.