The place is dark except for lots of little white candles burning on the shelves behind the bar and on every table at The Hub [312 Main Street, (713)224-8880]. A jazz quintet called the Dave Marcellin Trio is cruising along on the momentum of a fine rhythm section. (I suspect they are the trio, and the other two guys are there to jam.) It is like some downtown jazz grotto — just the thing for the first Monday night of Ken Burns withdrawal.

The Hub’s Water Moccasin: The bartender says he first saw this drink at Spy [112 Travis, (713)225-2229]. I ask him if it originated in Houston. He says he has no idea. The strange thing about it is that after you shake the cranberry juice with the Crown Royal, the brown color seems to disappear. It’s hard to believe there’s any whiskey in it.

1 1/2 shots Crown Royal

1 shot sweet-and-sour mix

1 shot cranberry juice

Maraschino cherry

2/3 cup ice

In a shaker, mix the ice, Crown Royal, sweet-and-sour mix and cranberry juice, and shake well to blend. Pour into a rocks glass and garnish with the cherry. Yields one.

This article appears in Feb 15-21, 2001.