While my three tablemates at Feast (219 West­heimer, 713-529-7788) were trying to decide on entrées, I was spending quality time with the cocktail menu. The much-lauded rustic European restaurant has assembled a nice list, with Manhattan and martini mainstays, more obscure classics like the Singapore Sling and stranger offerings like a Long Island Iced Tea variation featuring sparkling wine.

I started with a simple aperitif, Campari and soda. Campari, the 150-year-old Italian concoction, has a distinct herbal flavor and is drier than an Arizona spinster. It’s not for everyone; my date said it had an almost medicinal taste that reminded her of crushed-up pills. (“Hey, it tastes like college!” I was smart enough not to add.) If you like the taste, though, it’s a perfect precursor to a heavy meal.

Feast’s Campari and Soda

  • 2 ounces Campari
  • 2 ounces soda
  • Fresh lime juice

Pour Campari over ice in a highball glass and top off with soda. Squeeze fresh lime juice over the top. Campari is also entertaining to serve to children just to see the look on their faces.

This article appears in Aug 5-11, 2010.