Like all the dishes on the menu at Saga Food & Wine (3017 Milam, 713-523-1010), the tuna nachos ($9) come in a tapas-size portion — you may find that one order isn’t enough. Sesame-encrusted ahi tuna is quickly seared, then chopped into tiny cubes. A spicy oil drizzled on top adds just the right piquancy, and a slice or two of yellow tomato and tiny pea shoots contributes a brilliant splash of color. It all comes on crispy wontons covered with a thin layer of smooth guacamole.
This article appears in Jun 12-18, 2008.