Terrific trifecta: There are three flavors that, when combined, form a perfect harmony. They are sweet, savory and spicy, and they can all be found in the calamari ($10.50) at Vic & Anthony’s (1510 Texas, 713-228-1111). The sweetness comes from sweet caramelized onions, as well as sweet red peppers, which also add heat to this dish, not to mention a splash of color. The savory comes in the form of the calamari themselves, gently fried to a perfect crispness. While they are served as an appetizer, the mound of calamari that arrives is certainly large enough to eat as a main course. These may be the best in town.
This article appears in Apr 9-15, 2009.