There’s an appetizer at Denis’ Seafood House (9777 Katy Fwy., 713-464-6900) that will have you begging for more: the seared tuna plantain ($9.95). Six thick strips of crispy plantains are covered in a sour cream sauce, then topped with slices of tuna that were marinated in soy sauce and seared. Tiny cubes of tomatoes, yellow and green bell peppers and cilantro add spectacular color and flavor. You have to eat the plantain strips with your fingers, since trying to eat this with a knife and fork will only lead to everything falling apart and utter humiliation.
This article appears in Aug 5-11, 2010.