Sometimes I'm amazed at how stupid I can be. My first trip to Texas is a perfect example — I fully expected to see cacti and cowboys after stepping out of Hobby. I also thought that most Houston bars would be like the Tumbleweed Texas (13101 Kuykendahl Rd., 281-872-7829), catering to a bevy of rowdy country line dancers. While most bars in town have abandoned the year-round rodeo vibe, the Tumbleweed embraces it. The saloon even offers free lessons (and a buffet) on Sundays. Tonight, however, is Tuesday, and here at this north Houston dance hall, the hip-hop playing overhead suggests that "urban cowboy" has taken on new meaning. So naturally, I order an amaretto sour, pull up a chair and watch the train wreck. Almost before it starts, though, the DJ invites the regular crowd out with a little George Strait, prompting even the oldest, most smoke-addled of the bunch to ask the bartender to boogie. Politely declining, the bartender moves on to more important duties, like sliding a napkin between my drink and the counter in an effort to save it from warping. Say what you will about the merits of the coaster — I just never expected to see one in a Texas saloon.

1 1/2 ounces Newport amaretto

2 ounces sweet and sour mix

2 maraschino cherries

Pour ingredients over ice, garnish with two cherries and a napkin.