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The Case for Dallas

Empire Baking colonizes Post Oak with distinguished breads -- and more

The brand-new Empire Baking Company makes a persuasive argument for Dallas, that city Houstonians love to hate. Stupendous loaves, eventful sandwiches, punchy salads, tony people-watching, smart little wine list, industrial good looks: if there's anything not to like about this bakery-cafe import -- which has no relation to our homegrown Empire Cafe in Montrose -- I haven't figured out what it is yet.

Yes, the prices are sobering. But the quality's there in spades, and anyone broken in by the dizzying bread tariffs at the late Quilted Toque probably won't blanch at forking over $5.50 for a loaf or six bucks for a sandwich. The payoff is bread to remember: a moist, dense oval of roasted-garlic-and-pine-nut bread that's a controlled explosion of flavor; a wonderfully spongy, air-pocketed dome of rustic pane paisano that combines lightness with gravitas and looks, in its outsize puffiness, like a visitor from another planet.

You can dive into a simple bread basket here and forget to come up for air, particularly when you order the pungent, wine-dark olive spread called tapenade, which is nothing less than the Mediterranean distilled into a small, white crock. Does it taste better with Empire's basic, faintly sour farm bread or with the earthier cracked-wheat version? Better have another couple of pieces to make sure. And maybe twin rosettes of baked garlic to squoosh on just for the purposes of comparison, along with some of that golden olive oil and a couple of toasted pine nuts.

Consorting with the irresistible bread basket and spreads is a good way to ruin your appetite for lunch. Solution: order one of a changing roster of salads. A stunning toss of field greens laced with fat little tat soi leaves, perhaps, its lively balsamic vinaigrette worth chasing around the plate with a piece of bread, its interesting cargo of crisp, fresh pear, goat cheese and sweet red-onion confit banishing qualms about the $8 price tag. Even the dried, tart cherries that sound like a Dallas-y stretch work well in this salad; they are more provocative than precious.

Not by dried cherries alone does Empire bespeak its city of origin: its high-style austerity is pure Big-D. Tech-y coils of electrical tubing snake down from the high ceilings; chrome-clad industrial shelving and sculptural wire Bertoia chairs shine in a flood of natural light; black-granite tables and earth-colored cement flooring brood with a dull luster. Outside, the city-of-tomorrow vista furnished by architect Cesar Pelli's Interfin buildings thuds to earth in a grim concrete parking lot and a snippet of James Coney Island that says, "remember you're in Houston." To be specific, you're at the epicenter of the real-estate quake now shaking up the intersection of Post Oak and San Felipe -- the sleek new Birraporetti's is next door, the thronged California Pizza Kitchen a catty-cornered hop away, and the hotsy-totsy Q Club health spa just yards up the street.

The natives arrive in their Range Rovers and upper-end Japanese imports, clad in Post Oaky business garb or serious exercise gear or the Official Empire Baking Company Uniform, distaff division (namely blue jeans and a good -- make that very good -- tweed jacket). They breakfast on caffe latte and gorgeous, crumbly currant scones, tender and richly buttery. They lunch on toasted calamata-olive bread layered with roasted red peppers, wafer-thin grilled yellow squash and an extravagance of semi-molten goat cheese, a sandwich that actually seems worth its steep $8 price in tandem with a green salad sparkling with lemon vinaigrette, its intensity doubled by soft shavings of lemon peel. They linger in front of the bread still life at the seductive front counter, trying to decide between a short-crusted apple tart with the look of a hand-crafted dumpling and a user-friendly hazelnut biscotti of far more depth and subtlety than the usual tooth-breaking slabs.

Mere weeks into the Empire's young life, there's already a short wait for lunch by half-past noon. While soups, hot sandwiches and salads revolve weekly, the staples are well-considered cold sandwiches matched to the bakery's kaleidoscope of breads. The effect of exemplary chicken salad spiked with toasted almonds and rosemary leaps exponentially in the presence of opulent walnut bread strewn with fresh, green-tasting scallions. Pimento cheese with fresh dill and chives achieves pure classicism when it meets Empire's sturdy farm bread with its strong, chewy crust. And wonder of wonders, instead of mucking up their sandwiches with dreary winter tomatoes, Empire dispenses with these sog-inducing irrelevancies, sticking sensibly to a chaste layer of romaine.

There are few misses among this generally excellent fare. One is a distinctly unthrilling tuna salad that wants something -- a fresh herb? an interesting crunch factor? more of those good bread-and-butter sweet pickles? -- to lift it from the realm of who-cares boredom and justify its cost. Another is the flattish takeout salads that also go into Empire's ten-buck box lunches: fresh cilantro and red onion and a vanishing citrus vinaigrette don't save the rice salad from blandness (a kitchen that makes a great lemon vinaigrette should be able to fix this); and roasted potatoes tossed with olive oil, thyme and rosemary could use a hit of kosher salt or vinegar to brighten them up.

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