I don't know what you do when you're depressed. Me? I head for Goode Company Bar-B-Que (5109 Kirby Drive, 522-2530). Have you noticed how happy everyone is in that place? I tell you: Barbecue is the best blues buster around. Don't ask me why. Maybe it produces endorphins or something. What matters is, it works. Beef brisket is my Valium now, and pork ribs my Prozac. But it's duck I turn to when I'm really down. At Goode Company, ducks are marinated in marmalade and honey before being mesquite-smoked for four to five hours over a low heat. The result is a meat that's smoky-sweet and rich in juices. Talk about bliss!